You've picked your breed. Here's what comes next.

Both options have pros and cons. There is no right choice — only a conscious one.

Bad breeders are unfortunately the norm, not the exception. Here is what to look for.

• ✓The breeder shows you the environment — and the mother dog
• ✓Puppies stay with the mother for at least 8 weeks (preferably 10–12)
• ✓Health tests of both parents are documented (hips, eyes, heart — depending on the breed)
• ✓You can request multiple references from previous buyers
• ✓The breeder also asks questions about you — a good breeder selects their buyers
• ✓There is a contract with a buy-back clause: if things don't work out, the breeder takes the dog back

💡 Red flag: breeders who breed multiple breeds simultaneously, don't show the mother, or want to deliver immediately without a conversation.

Buy this before the puppy arrives — not after.

• ✓Crate or dog bed in a quiet spot — this becomes the dog's safe place
• ✓Food bowl and water bowl (stainless steel lasts a lifetime)
• ✓Quality puppy food — ask the breeder which brand the puppy is used to, switch gradually
• ✓Collar + identification tag with your phone number
• ✓Lead (no retractable for puppies — teach them to walk correctly)
• ✓Chew items — puppies chew, give them something good to chew on
• ✓Vet found and first appointment planned
• ✓Hazards removed: cables, plants, cleaning products

The first week is overwhelming for the puppy. Everything is new: the smells, the sounds, the people. Don't expect a relaxed dog straight away.

Crying at night is normal. The puppy misses its littermates and mother. A ticking clock next to the crate or a worn item of clothing from the breeder can help.

Introduce one thing at a time. No busy visits or long outings in the first days. Let the puppy discover its new home at its own pace.

The first few weeks largely determine how quickly your puppy becomes house-trained. The golden rule: outside when the puppy needs it, not when it's convenient for you.

When does a puppy need to go? Right after waking up, after every meal (within five to ten minutes), after playing or excitement, and after a nap. Going outside every two hours is a good starting point — but watch the behavior. If your puppy starts sniffing and circling, get outside immediately.

Reward works. A calm “good job” or a small treat immediately after the puppy goes outside. Don't wait until you're back inside — by then the connection is already lost.

Accidents happen. Clean up without comment and move on. Punishment makes things worse: a puppy doesn't understand “no” in this context — it only learns that going to the toilet is dangerous when you're around, and starts doing it out of sight.

Consistency helps. Same spot outside, same route, same timing after meals. The more predictable the routine, the faster the puppy understands what's expected.

Most puppies are house-trained during the day by four to five months. At night it takes longer — a young bladder cannot hold on all night. Build this up gradually: plan a fixed late-night trip outside around 11 pm for the first few weeks.

With consistent outdoor trips and timely rewards, most puppies get the hang of it in a matter of weeks. Patience and routine matter more than the breed.

This is not optional — these are obligations.

• ✓Microchipping is legally required in many countries — have this done immediately if the breeder has not already done it
• ✓Register the chip with the national database — this is your responsibility as the new owner
• ✓Core vaccinations (distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis + leptospirosis) are usually started by the breeder — ask for the vaccination booklet
• ✓Rabies vaccination is required if you travel internationally
• ✓Take out insurance before the first vet visit — some conditions will otherwise fall under exclusions
• ✓Compare policies based on coverage, excess and maximum reimbursement per condition

Immediately. Not next week. Not when the puppy is eight weeks old.

Puppies learn from day one. Everything you allow, the dog learns is okay. Reward-based training works best with puppies: positive reinforcement, no punishment, short sessions of two to five minutes, several times a day.

Basic commands to start with immediately: name, sit, place, come. Later: off, stay, drop it. Puppy classes are not a luxury — they are an investment that pays back through a dog that is a pleasure to live with.

Socialisation is just as important as training: let the puppy have as many positive experiences as possible during the sensitive period (up to 14 weeks). Other dogs, children, bicycles, busy places, quiet spots — broad and positive.

What a puppy eats in its first year lays part of the foundation for its health as an adult. Nutrition is not an afterthought.

Puppy food, not adult food. Puppies need different nutrients than adult dogs — more protein, different mineral balance, more calories per kilogram of body weight. Always use food specifically formulated for puppies, ideally matched to breed size (small, medium, and large breeds each have their own formula).

Switch gradually. Ask the breeder which brand and type of food the puppy is used to. Don't switch overnight — that causes stomach upset and diarrhea. Transition over 7 to 10 days: start with 75% old / 25% new, and gradually increase the share of new food.

How much and how often? Puppies up to four months eat three to four times a day. After that, twice a day. Follow the guidelines on the packaging based on the expected adult weight — not the current weight. A puppy that eats too much during the growth phase can develop joint problems, especially in large breeds.

Fresh water at all times. Keep the water bowl in a fixed spot and refill it with fresh water every day. A puppy can dehydrate quickly — especially in warm weather or after play.

What to avoid. Never give chocolate, grapes, raisins, onions, garlic, macadamia nuts, or xylitol (an artificial sweetener in gum and some peanut butters). These are toxic to dogs, even in small amounts. Avoid bones that can splinter (such as cooked chicken bones). Raw meat is not standard advice for puppies — check with your vet.

When to switch to adult food? It depends on breed size: small breeds around 10–12 months, large and giant breeds not until 18–24 months. Ask your vet at the first check-up.